Arnold and Ruoss started at the bottom of the Heckmair Route and scaled the iconic European mountain in just six hours and ten minutes, besting the old record by forty minutes. The Swiss climbers went fast and light, carrying only the minimal equipment needed to make the ascent.
Arnold remarked that there isn’t much ice on the Eiger this year, making the conditions poor for climbing. Many climbers depend on ice on the upper sections to hold the rock scree in place and to prevent them from being pelted with stones as they go up. When there is little or no ice, it makes the climb that much more treacherous.
They set off at 1:35 AM climbing in darkness, and took just three hours to reach the Death Bivouac. From there they shot up The Ramp, and made good time in the demanding sections above it, only to face strong winds when they reached the Exit Cracks. By sun rise they were on the Mittelegi Ridge and the summit at 7:45 a.m.
This amazing climb follows Ueli Steck breaking his own speed record a month ago, shooting up the face in just two hours and 47 minutes. Clearly, it’s been a very fast year on the Eiger.
Great work guys! Congrats on the new record.
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