Himalaya Update: More Dhaulagiri Summits, Progress on Annapurna


ExWeb has their usual well rounded update on what’s happening around the Himalaya today, starting with a recap on the Dhaulagiri summits from yesterday.

As suspected, Gerlinde Kalenbrunner did indeed claim her 11th 8000m peak yesterday, putting her currently in the lead for the race to be the the first woman to claim all 14 mountains. She now has Everest, Lhotse, and the dreaded K2 yet to summit. They also report that Valery Babanov and Nickolay Totmjanin reached the summit yesterday as well, via the North East Ridge. More details on that climb are expected soon.

On Makalu, Denis Urubko and his team are believed to be ready for their summit push, as they have now climbed as high as 6700m and returned to BC. With acclimatization out of the way, they’re expected to go back up the mountain, with a summit bid coming as early as Monday.

The news out Annapurna BC is that Camp 4 has now been established at 6800m, with teams at a variety of locations on the mountain. Many are in BC, resting before going back up, but Inaki Ochoa and Horia Colibasanu are at C3 with a possible summit attempt coming soon. But Piotr Morawski reports that the Polish team was turned back just 150m below the summit due to gale force winds. They had spent 12 hours climbing it what has been described as tough conditions before descending the mountain. Everyone waits for the weather window at this point.

Finally, Maxut reports in from Manaslu that conditions have been challenging there as well. Several teams intended to climb up to C3 as part of their acclimatization process, but turned back thanks to poor conditions. There is reportedly quite a bit of snow and challenging technical ice above C2, which is making it very tough going for everyone involved.

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