It seems that there were several summits to celebrate over the weekend, not the least of which was Juanito Oiarzabal topping out with Pasang Nuru Sherpa and Roberto Rojo on Makalu. The three men have already returned to base camp, but the climb has left it’s mark, as Juanito is showing the effects of frostbite. Having suffered from the affliction in the past, he is more susceptible to it now, and once again he is threatened with the loss of more toes. A small price to pay however for claiming his astonishing 22nd 8000m peak. Amazing work Juanito, hope the toes thaw properly.
Expect more summits on Makalu soon, as the word is that Brazilians Waldemar Niclevicz and Irivan Burda, Argentinean Hernán and Ecuadorian Santiago Quintero have all moved up to C3 and should be making their summit bids at any time in the next day or so.
Meanwhile, over on Dhaulagiri, the mountain where the summit parties never end, comes the news that the Polish Team has also topped out yesterday. Artur Hajzer and Robert Szymczak reached the top at approximately 2:45PM. More news on the team is expected one they reach BC, and they were headed for C3 at the time of their last report, so it’s likely they are already back down the mountain.
Carlos Pauner and Javier Pérez are on their way to the Khumbu Valley, as they are hoping to take advantage of their acclimatization on Dhaulagiri to go for a rare double-header. After reaching the summit of Dhaula a few weeks back, they’ll now pit their skills against Lhotse as well. They are expected in Kathmandu tomorrow, and from their they’ll head to Everest BC where they hope to make one long, alpine style, attempt on the summit. Good luck guys!
Finally, over on Annapurna, Iñaki Ochoa and his partner Horia Colibasanu, have announced that they will no longer be climbing with Don Bowie. It seems there has been some kind of personal falling out between the men, with Iñaki saying: “ue to irreconcilable differences, Horia Colibasanu and I have decided not to continue climbing on Annapurna with Canadian Don Bowie, who has not been up to the level of demand required and has thus upset our trust in him”. Harsh words coming from one of the top climbers in the world. Iñaki and Horia hope to make their own summit bid in just a few short days if the weather cooperates.
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