Himalaya Triple Header Puts Korean Climber in the Race for First Female on All 8000m Peaks

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For months we’ve been hearing about how Nives Meroi, Gerlinde Kaltenbruner, and Edurne Pasaban were the three women who were gunning to become the first to reach the summit of all 14 8000m peaks. Well now, thanks to a stunning triple header in the Himalaya, there is another woman throwing her hat into the ring to make that claim.

South Korean climber Go Mi-sun along with climbing partner Kim Jae-soo, pulled off a first in the Himalaya this spring season by knocking off three 8000 meter peaks. The pair first took on Makalu, reaching the summit on April 30th, before moving on to Kangchenguna, reaching the summit of that mountain on the 19th of May. Not content with having added two big peaks to their resume, they went on to the summit of Dhaulagiri, finishing their triple header on the 9th of June.

Having completed these three climbs, Go Mi-Sun now has 10 of the 14 8000m peaks under her belt, and has achieved all 10 in just 2 1/2 years. She is also reportedly en route to Pakistan, where she’ll attempt another triple header, this time bagging Gasherbrum I and II as well as Nanga Parbet. If successful, she’ll have just Annapurna on her list, and she’ll be right there with Nives, Gerlinde, and Edurne coming down the stretch.

Pretty impressive climbing to say the least. Having the potential to knock off six 8000 meter peaks in the span of just a few months is amazing. I wish her all the luck in the Karakorum this summer, and of course on Annapurna when she gets the opportunity. Saving that mountain for last may have been a good idea, but it is definitely no walk in the park, and often considered one of the most challenging mountains in the world.

Thanks to Stweart’s Climbing Blog for this great story.

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9 thoughts on “Himalaya Triple Header Puts Korean Climber in the Race for First Female on All 8000m Peaks”

  1. I haven't heard of anyone coming close. Since this is the first successful triple header, I don't think it has been done before. The question is, how exhausted will she be when she starts up the mountains again? She'll certainly be well acclimatized.

  2. Three or more in a year yes, but this is the first time someone has knocked off three in a single season. And she's trying to go for another three in rapid succession.

    Adventure Stats also say no one has done six in year, and who knows, maybe she'll make an attempt on Annapurna in the Fall.

    Of course, for now, she needs to just stay focused on the Karakorum. Plenty of work ahead there first.

  3. I dunno what is meant by "season". Is it calendar season or "a time of the year where climbing usually happens (so april-june is often the climbing period in the himalayas, then around october-november" ?

    The stats mention 7 people doing 3 summits in less than a month. 2 personns bagged 3 summits in only 15 days!

    But this doesn't make her small. She's a SHE and even if she was a he, it's still a great feat. Hope she's bagging 3 more soon !

  4. A season usually refers to a block of time climbing in a range, like Spring Himalaya, Summer Karakorum and so on. And it doesn't really correspond to the actual seasons per se.

    It was Everest News that claimed it as a "first", but they have a few qualifiers on it saying "South Korean Go Mi Sun and Kim Jae Soo scored the first ever hat trick in the Himalayan mountaineering in Nepal by successfully scaling 3 major 8000 meter peaks in a single season (pre monsoon)."

    So it may mostly be semantics at this point. But yeah, you're right. Impressive any way you look at it. Hope she gets the next 3 too.

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