Winter Climb Update: Over On Nanga Parbat


Faced with an already treacherous climb, and more bad weather in the forecast, mountaineers Simone Moro and Denis Urubko have decided to pull the plug on the Nanga Parbat expedition this winter. The two men have spent the last 51 days on this attempt, and had reached as high as 6600 meters (21,653 ft) on the mountain, but ultimately, the conditions are just not safe and the necessary weather window doesn’t appear to be in the immediate forecast.

Simone and Denis will now wait the next few days for the snow to stop falling long enough for a team of porters to come gather their gear. They expect to be in Base Camp for another three or four days, then start the long journey home.

They had shared BC with a Polish team, which departed the mountain yesterday, and with the departure of the Russian squad from K2, Gasherbrum I is now the last of the 8000 meter peaks with an ongoing winter climb.

In announcing the end of their expedition, Moro and Urubko released the video below. They say that their weather reports indicate that as much as 100-50cm (3 -5 feet) of additional snow could fall on Nanga Parbat over the next week or so. With the danger from avalanches already high, it seems prudent that they go home and wait for another opportunity.

Kraig Becker