Italian climber Simone Moro is one of the most accomplished and ambitious mountaineers climbing today. He has completed four first ascents of 8000-meter peaks in the winter, and over the course of his career, he has redefined what it means to go light and fast in the mountains, usually without Sherpa support. As he approaches the age of 50, he doesn’t seem to be slowing down in anyway, as he continues to look for new ways to explore the high places of the Earth.
Recently, Simone sat down for an interview with Alpinism Online (English translation here), which turned out to be quite an interesting read. In that interview, he touches upon such topics as what its like to climb in the winter, finding a balance between his expeditions and home life, and what it is like to have a male vs. a female expedition partner. He also shares his thoughts on the most difficult experience he’s ever had in the mountains and the loss of his friend Ueli Steck this past spring.
Simone also says that he still has plenty of objectives he wants to achieve, even as he nears his 50th birthday this month. He says that he continues to keep climbing, and takes inspiration from Spanish mountaineer Carlos Soria, who remains active well into his 70’s.
Moro tells the interviewer that he has another expedition planned for this winter, but he isn’t ready to divulge exactly what that is just yet. He also indicates that he would be willing to join Alex Txikon for a winter attempt on Everest, but that he’d want to do it without the use of Sherpas.
All-in-all, its a pretty interesting article, not just for the insights into Simone’s life and personality, but also his thoughts on mountaineering and where it is headed. This is a guy who has been on the cutting edge of climbing for decades, and he has some interesting perspectives to share to say the least.
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