Nepal Looks Ahead to 2020 Fall Himalayan Climbing Season

Plans for the fall 2020 climbing season in the Himalaya look like they’re starting to take shape. While we’re still a couple of months away from the traditional start of the season, Nepali operators eager to get back to business have begun announcing plans for the months ahead. That includes organizing expeditions to the 8000 … Read more

Video: Setting a New Speed Record on Dhaulagiri VII in Nepal

At 7246 meters (23,763 ft), Dhaulagiri VII in northern Nepal is an impressive peak that seldom gets any attention. Because it sits in the shadow of the other 8000-meter giants, it isn’t climbing nearly as often as it should be. That was an opportunity for mountaineer and skier Benedikt Böhm however, as he traveled to … Read more

Himalaya Fall 2019: Season Nears End as Teams Leave Everest and Dhaulagiri

While I was away in Jordan last week the last throes of the autumn climbing season were playing out in the Himalaya. And while a lot went down during that timeframe, ultimately the news isn’t what happened, but what didn’t happen. As it turns out, there weren’t a lot of summits to report as teams abandoned Everest … Read more

Himalaya Fall 2019: Summits on Dhaulagiri as Weather Window Opens

The news from the Himalaya continues to roll in this week as we have news of successful summits on Dhaulagiri. Throughout the autumn climbing season weather conditions on that mountain have been less than favorable, but over the past few days things have improved somewhat and a weather window has opened at last. This has … Read more

Himalaya Fall 2019: Nims’ Shishapangma Schedule and a Dhaulagiri Update

Fans of Nirmal “Nims” Purja were overjoyed by the news that came yesterday that China would grant him a permit to climb Shishapangma this fall, despite the mountain being closed to everyone else. Nims himself has yet to acknowledge this update, although it is widely being reported around the Internet from a variety of sources, … Read more

Himalaya Spring 2019: Summits Continue as Two Climbers Perish on Kangchenjunga

A quick, but sad, update from the Himalaya this morning where we’ve learned that two climbers have perished on Kangchenjunga. The news comes as improved weather conditions allow more climbers to make successful summits across the region and other teams prepare for an upcoming push on Everest. Since my last update a few days back … Read more

Himalaya Spring 2019: Potential Summits Despite the High Winds

Despite the fact that high winds remain in the forecast for Everest and other major Himalayan peaks, some climbers are already looking ahead for their opportunity to summit. Right now, it appears the jet stream could remain locked in place until Sunday, May 12, preventing anyone from going to the top until after that. But … Read more

Himalaya Spring 2019: Climbers Attempt New Routes on Annapurna and Dhaulagiri Too

We already new that Cory Richards and Topo Mena would attempt a new route on Everest this spring, but it turns out that they’re not the only ones venturing into the unknown in the Himalaya. Two other teams are also looking to create new routes in the Himalaya this season, with bold attempts scheduled to take … Read more

Himalaya Fall 2018: Teams Leave Dhaulagiri and Annapurna Due to Poor Conditions

The fall 2018 climbing season has turned toward the finish line. While there are still a number of teams in the region that are focused on making their ascents up various big mountains, the bulk of the commercial squads have now wrapped up their expeditions and are heading home. Last week was a successful one … Read more

Himalaya Fall 2018: More Summits and the “Dream Line” Skied on Lhotse

To say that it has been a busy couple of days in the Himalaya would be an understatement. This past weekend saw a significant number of summits on several mountains, along with a few historic achievements in the big mountains. And while the commercial climbing season is starting to wind down, there is still a … Read more