Himalaya Update: Bad Weather Continues

Now that the Free Dream Team has officially given up on Trango Towers, the climbing season in the Karakorum is officially over for another year. But teams in the Himalaya are hoping to get their chance on the mountain of their choice soon, although the weather in that region has not been cooperative yet.

According to the latest update from ExWeb, the monsoon refuses to give up it’s hold on the HImalaya, and it’s making life difficult all over Nepal and Tibet. There are even some indications that a few teams have already given up and are heading home.

On Manaslu, there are three new teams in camp according to Edurne Pasaban, but BC isn’t becoming too crowded, as other teams will soon be departing. She notes that some climbers have been there since August 20th, and still haven’t had a chance at the summit, so they’ve elected to go home instead. Amongst the newcomers are Nives Meroi and husband Romano Benet, who are hoping to add another 8000m peak to their resume. An American team headed up by Tom McMillan has also hit base camp. They had originally intended to climb Cho Oyu, but due to the Chinese restrictions on that mountain, they were forced to make a quick change of plans.

Speaking of Cho Oyu, there are a few teams on that mountain who are preparing to make their summit bids. The Field Touring Team has reportedly finished up their acclimatization process and are now resting in ABC before making the first attempt on the top this season. Reportedly the large team of chinese climbers that are on the Cho Oyu have been fixing the lines, and with that work done, other teams will soon get their shot on the summit as well. All of these pushes are labeled as “weather permitting” however, as conditions are not good here either.

Fredrik Ericsson is also making dispatches for his expedition on Kangchenjunga as well, and from the sounds of things, he can’t wait to get to the mountain. He first noted that life in Kathmandu was a bit too hectic for him, being use to a more serene and quiet life in Northern Sweden, and now that the team is trekking to the mountain, he’s not finding the rainforest to be that much more comfortable. I’m sure the colder, and snowier, regions higher on the mountain will be more to his liking.

On Baruntse a similar story is being told, as the Alpine Ascents Team waits out the weather as well. The forecast has a weather window opening today, and if that proved to be true, the team will be making their way up as a write this. With all of the snow on the mountain of late though, they are a bit wary of the conditions. The Adventure Consultants Team is in C2 on Baruntse as well, and the have decided to wait an extra day to let the conditions settle, even if the improved weather hits as expected.

Finally, sad news from Ambulapcha La, where two Sherpas have fallen while climbing the mountain. One died in the fall while the other was rescued, but now has to be evacuated from BC. Bad weather there is preventing that from happening at the moment. Everyone has their fingers crossed that the weather will improve there soon as well.

Kraig Becker

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